These are the woods that I use to make my cutting boards, paddles and other products:
- CHERRY - A north-eastern US and Canada wood with a fine texture. Very common in fine furniture. Becomes darker and richer with age. One of my favorites.
- EASTERN HARD MAPLE - This wood comes from North Eastern US and Canada. Known for its durability and strength. It's a mainstay of most cutting board and butcher block manufacturers. White to honey in color.
- PADAUK - A very hard wood from Africa that is red in colour. This tight-grained wood is quite expensive but it's colour is fabulous and is a regular in my projects.
- JATOBA - More commonly known as Brazilian Cherry, this wood comes from South America. Very distinct tight grain which adds a unique texture to end grain work. It can display fabulous streaks of colour.
- WENGE - A very dense, black wood from Africa that has replaced Ebony which is too hard to find and too expensive now to use in these projects. It is very dark brown with black streaks.
- BLOODWOOD - A very hard, very dark red wood. I like this wood but it's becoming difficult for me to find.
- MAHOGANY - A reddish brown wood that is truly gorgeous. It is an open grain wood that I use on my paddles but not cutting boards.
- PURPLE HEART - A very hard wood from Mexico and South America. It is, as its name suggests, purple in color and brings a special colorization to any project.
- AMERICAN BLACK WALNUT - A dark Chocolate wood mellowing to a light brown within the same board. Medium hard but very well suited for end grain cutting boards. Comes from Eastern US and Canada.
- PERUVIAN BLACK WALNUT - A dark Chocolate wood that darkens to near black when finished with oil. Medium hard and beautiful for my projects. Comes from Mexico, Central and South America.
- BAMBOO - A traditional hardwood from Asia, (really a grass). Very renewable as it grows up to 1 foot per day. Adds an Asian flair to the boards.
My projects are glued together with Titebond II adhesive. This adhesive is approved by the FDA as being safe for food contact.
My boards are finished with Mineral Oil first and then with a Beeswax blend. Additional finish for updating your boards is available.
In addition, all of my boards come with four rubber feet to provide a skid free contact on your counter for cutting safety.
I make everything listed in my store. Everything is made by hand in my shop.
All items are meant for use. While people constantly tell me they are too beautiful to use, they are intended for just that, to be used.
They will give you many years of regular use.
I use North American and Exotic Hardwoods purchased from an environmentally conscious supplier.
They are all hardwoods, which means that they have tight closed pores that absorb Mineral Oil but seal out bacteria.
Because the grain structure is so dense, when using the wood for end grain cutting boards minor knife cuts are prevented as the grain closes in around the intrusion.
My projects are glued together with Titebond II adhesive. This adhesive is approved by the FDA as being compatible for food contact. In addition this product carries a NSF food safe rating.
My boards are finished with Mineral Oil first and then with a Beeswax blend. Additional finish for updating your boards are available.
All of my products come with a lifetime guarantee. If any product I make and you purchase should ever fail, return it for repair or replacement.
All of my products are made from wood and as such are not meant to sit in water.
They can and should be washed but should not be immersed in water for any length of time.
After cleaning they should be dried. Nor should they sit in water on the counter. This is why I use the rubber feet on my boards.
My products are not dishwasher safe. Warranty is void if any of my creations have been damaged by immersion in water or placed in the dishwasher.
All of my products come with an information sheet on how to care for your new functional art piece.
Copyright © Acres Away Ventures Inc. | Vancouver Island
website by yellow point web design